I can hear cicada singing everywhere where some gardens are. Other then that, the city seems to be endless. Every once in a while, I stop by at some Convenience store to refill drinks and food and ask whether I am still on the right track. When I reach Takao, I am finally off the city and its suburbs. Nice steep mountains surround the place, and there is a hugh famous temple on top of Mnt. Takao. Wonderful smell of the woods... Riding further towards Otsuki, still in lovely countryside. There is not much traffic on the roads, it feels comfortable safe to ride the bicycle in Japan. Its going up and down gently. Lakes, mountains, villages with traditional houses and wonderful gardens. I reach Otsuki by 5PM, slightly exhausted after approximately 100 kilometers.

I hope I could take the train from here to Kawaguchiko, however the staff on the train station tells me it is not possible to carry the bicycle in the train. So I have to keep on riding. Still about 25 kilometers to go at dusk, now more and more uphill. Finally at 8 PM, I reach the place and meet my friend again, who did the trip by bus in just about 3 hours from Asakusa. Descent diner nearby the train station, a few beers and then a good sleep in the Youth Hostel.

I build up the tent, came to talk to a view people camping there as well and even met another cyclist, who's been traveling all over Japan since two months already. Next morning, the two of us intended to go for some hiking and went on our bikes further north. The street quickly turned into a sort of mountain bike trail with steep parts, big rocks and deeps sand every once in a while which caused quit some pain for my mate going there with her road racer. However, he managed very well! After 11 kilometers, we ended up at another mountain station with a little restaurant and shop, equipped ourselves with some food and decided to walk up to a place called Karazawa on 2300 metres altitude , being a another hill station close to the tallest peaks of the area. A great three hours walk through the native woods that turned from tall trees into small humbling ones, with small ponds and waterfalls of the Yokoo Dani river and even a snow field. Walking there, I felt like in the true heart of Japan. Few people on the trail, and always some friendly words. Reaching the station, me and my mate were invited for self cooked coffee and cheese by some other hikers, which greatly displays the kindness of the Japanese.

After the great time in Kamikochi in the Japanese Alps, my Japanese friend and I cycled together to Takayama. On the way, we had to climb a pass with 1800m at its highest point. My friend carried about 25 kg of luggage, and rode a racing bike with barely any gears for such roads, but he managed well... Way down it was easy living, we stopped by in some ancient village with public outdoor foot Onsen (that is volcanic water directly from Mother Earth, quite hot and somewhat smelly. Reaching Takayama which is also called Little Kyoto for its traditional houses and many many temples and shrines, we decided to put up our tents in the public park (which you can do in Japan after sunset). In the park, we talked to some locals, and we were offered to stay at their house, and dine and drink with them. Such a great night, thanks a lot Atsushi! The following day I spent on my own visiting town since my mate went on with his own tour. Takayama has an outstanding traditional Japanese town center and a big number of old Buddhist temples to visit. I strolled around, and decided to stay in a youth hostel in an old temple, where I met nice people again. Next day, rain... Decided to stay one more night, and spent my day in the local library reading Kanji books.

Tokayama

A great 100 kilometer trip in the mountains again, leading to Shirakawagou, and beautiful ancient style village with reed roof houses (Gassho houses). No camping there, so I go on towards Kanazawa. On the way, even more less known villages like Shirakawagou. Beautiful landscape all the way, few cars only. Up and down the small street, crossing bridges and tunnels... Close to sunset and physical exhaustion, I finally find another UNESCO World Heritage village, this time with a camp site. From the camp site I enjoy the nice view down the small valley. One more camper is here, a girl with a 600cc motorbike from Osaka. We prepare our diner on the camp fire. That means, I'm cooking water for my instant noodles and she shares all the nice stuff she just bought in the village. In most tourist spots, restaurants are closed by 5 or 6PM... A local comes by, throws some big lumps of wood into my mini fire and serves Sake. Next morning before sunrise, the fog lays so nicely in the valley. It seems like heaven, cloud seven...

Kanazawa and Fukui

Spent three days camping on various beaches around Kanazawa, watched the famous Park, the Geisha and Samurai residences. Swimming on a deserted beach in the Japanese Sea at sunset - incredible! Met an Toyoto manager at Tojinbo and talked to him and his son for quite a while. Next day, I visited the world famous Eheiji temple, a center of Zen Buddhism in the middle of old woods in the mountains. Incredible place, unfortunately I can neither meditate with them nor stay. Such things require prior booking. How can I do that, if I don't know in the morning where I'm gonna sleep at night?? Actually, that night I almost failed to find a place to stay. Some kind farmer brought me to a camping site way uphill with his little transporter. Great help, doumo arigatou gozaimasu!

Taking a break on Lake Biwa-ko

After almost 1000 kilometers on the bicycle and a number of rather cold nights in my summer sleeping bag, I am happy for the offer of a Japanese kanu boat builder to stay in his camper on the shore of Biwa-ko, the biggest lake in Japan. Enjoy the view of the nearby Restaurant and the hospitality of its stuff, we bake German style breadies and I can even make my fish banana pizza (thats my special recipe). So I stay three nights in one place, enjoy early morning meditations and watching the sunrise on the opposite shore. Met a French couple with their bicycles that came literally all the way from France by bike, traveling now since about 18 months. Great guys!

Next morning, I watch the bruises on the right leg, stretching from the knee up to the ass, looking like a weird tattoo. Never seen something like that. I'm happy I can still walk. So I head of Kyoto after breakfast with my kind hosts, just 20 kilometers. But they hurt...
Stay almost one week in Kyoto in Youth hostels, meeting funny travelers. Since I have been here already twice before, I focus on some parts I have not seen before. Kurama san, Arashiyama and Hieji san for their temples and shrines, and a day trip by train to Himeji for the biggest castle in Japan. Actually, great days, great experiences... Just small tours on the bike...

Two nights and one rainy day in Nara, staying in another youth hostel. Final inspection of the wounds by a doctor. Wounds were getting much better he says. A Japanese backpacker tells me about some very very old shrines and a temple that is UNESCO World heritage, each some 20, 30 kilometers away from Nara. Heartland... No tourists here, but spirits of ancient times.

Wakayama

After this day trip tour, I felt well enough to cycle again bigger tours. I decided to skip the famous shrines of  Ise (way east east of Nara) and take a route south, directly into the mountains. After a few hours cycling industrial areas and getting lost with my inadequate maps, I'm climbing mountains again with my bike. No more traffic anymore, but woods, bamboo grooves, a few palms here and there. A river winding in a stony bed below the narrow road, and the mountains climb steeply on both sides. Someone told me about a famous bridge "Tamise no Tsuribashi" and I go for it. In a restaurant - they are seldom on route 168 I went on, I ask for directions. The staff smiles and shows me a rope bridge (Seilbruecke) out of the restaurants the big window, high up above the wide river bank here. For pedestrians only. Curiously, they have a camp site just on the other side on the river bank. I decide to stay, have diner at 4PM since I know they will close soon enough. Can camp for free on the camp site, the old lady has seen me on the road before she says and is happy about her only customer tonight. Have a foot bath in the Kumano river and do Tai Chi in the moonlight. I'm more than happy that I can cycle again, that I have the freedom to do this adventure and many many people have helped me to come here. Next day off to Hongu, and its famous Hongu shrine. Pouring rain, nevertheless the shrine is fantastic. Decide to move on towards Wakayama city the following day. Reaching Shiramizaki, the white cape south of Wakayama city. Splendid weather again, tropical feeling with palms on the beaches. Swimming on the beach, camping between the white rocks on the cape that shine brightly in the full moon.

I started the pilgrimage on October, 5th in Naruto, and reached Mount Koya back in Wakayama, Honshu on October 31st. What made me going on a pilgrimage at all? At first, it was an idea, a curiosity of what would happen, and a good portion of interest in Shingon Buddhism, to which Reiki Healing is closely related. On the first day, hunting one temple after the other by bicycle seemed fun. I did 10 temples, that were rather close to each other. On the second day, a taifun was getting closer, there was a lot of rain already and I only visited No 11 and climbed up No 12, Shōzanji, the first really elevated temple of the trip, hiking the last bit. Incredible scenery in that monastery... Reciting the Indian Gayatri mantra since that was the only one I knew at the time. After hiking back to the bicycle, I received a nice gift - a free meal of hot Udon noodles. Afterwards, a woman from an Udon restaurant brought me and the bike back to town, while there was rivers of rain water flushing down the streets. In the hotel, a Japanese lady introduced me to parts of the prayers the were to be recited by the pilgrims and I started to get a glimpse. On more day in the pouring rain, I visited a few temples by bicycle. Actually I ended up totally soaked in a youth hostel at a small lovely beach somewhat south of Tokushima city. Here I waited until the taifun had faded out.
Then I started off with good weather and good mood for the next mountain temples with incredibly steep and narrow paths, on the bike, with my luggage. Did the first, went down again and decided to take the cablecar for the next 600 something meter elevated temple (Tairyu-ji) on the same day since I had plans to reach way further. Great place, afterwards I regret I did not stay there longer.

On the long tracks on the coastline, I stopped by once in a while to swim in the sea. I camped on the beaches and slept in wooden shelters on park benches. I spent money for Japanese guest houses and stayed in temples every once in a while. Received a lot of help and various small gifts (so called osettai) from locals and sometimes from car or bus pilgrims, and it was a pleasure connecting with the people, learning about their way of doing the pilgrimage. More and more I learned about the differences, some "walking henros" would try to reach as much as possible every day, running on a tight schedule with pre-booked hotels and a limited time frame because of the little holidays. Others would just camp outside, doing everything gently, talking to the locals and thereby discover many "secrets" of the temples. At some stage I started reciting the sutras as well, and asked for the meanings of the temples. But every once in a while, I speed up again, doing crazy temple runs again.  

After Unpenji, the highest temple on 900 something metres that I did by bicycle, I got tired and exhausted. Met a 45 year old Japanese walking henro again and again who introduced me to his art of slow movement on the pilgrimage. He was on the pilgrimage already since three months, and certainly learned so much about it, interviewing the people of the temples and places. Together, we climbed up steep mountains and reached rocky temples that did not belong to the official part, yet these were the really magical places. Afterwards, I slowed down to the speed of walking henros, spend an hour at each temple, trying to memorize them better by finding a special thing, discovering something unique at least to me. Enjoyed the stream of pilgrims circulating around the island of Shikoku. Spend two rather rainy days in Zentsuji, No 75, the place where Kobo Daishi was born. My slowly moving Japanese friend was there, as well as a French hitchhiking pilgrim that I met about two weeks before, was there as well, and we've had a great time while it was raining, not just talking about Buddhism.

On the last day of the official part of the pilgrimage, there were yet another two mountain passes to cycle. A good time to contemplate on what I just did and what I wanted to do next. After I visited the first temple (Ryozen ji) once again, I went for a long Onsen (public bath) and good diner. The ferry back to Wakayama would leave 3:25 AM next morning, and I just slept two hours at the ferry port.

From Wakayama to Koya san, there is only 70 kilometers to ride, however the winds were not my friends that morning, and the first 40 kilometers took me somewhat until lunchtime. Met a very friendly priest in the Jisonin temple, a temple that I stopped by rather randomly after a long nap on the river banks. The priest told me about the history and the meaning of the temple, and its relation to the Shikoku pilgrimage. Afterwards, there were yet another 700 or 800 meters to climb up to Koya san, which I somehow managed until 4 PM in best weather conditions, literally screaming at the hugh wooden Daimon (main gate). Entering the town, I faced crowds of tourists. Saturday in best weather conditions. Autumn colors of the maple trees. I didn't bother for sightseeing nor visiting the last temples of my pilgrimage, I was just happy to have a hot bath in my youth hostel. Started visiting the temple where Kobo Daishi was enshrined next morning at 7 AM, just before the crowds of tourist would appear. Incredible feeling to tell Kobo Daishi that the pilgrimage was over, or at least the Shikoku part. Recited the sutras once again, with a group of bus pilgrims, and enjoyed the moment. Then I walked off the place that got crowded in the meantime in bright sunshine, randomly heading for some small footpath leading uphill in the jungle. Some quite big black animal rushed away, just 10 or reached the last resting place of Kobo Daishi 20 metres away. A bear? A few hundred metres later, my Indian prayer bracelet (Mala) that I always used to recite Indian and Japanese mantras since February broke when I climbed over a tree that was lying over the small path. I left the remains over there, knowing that things will change and live keeps on changing anyway. Just a matter what one makes out of it. So I climbed on and arrived back at the youth hostel before the rain started and the temperature dropped. Later that day, I discovered a lot of interesting stories hidden in the wall paintings of the halls in the Shingon headquarter, connected to Kobo Daishi and the history of Koyasan. And connected to the black animal that morning in the woods, and the lost prayer bracelet... A randomly met Japanese turned out to be staying in my hostel too, and was kind enough to explain parts of the exhibition and provide me shelter afterwards from the pouring rain with his umbrella. Great diner together in a Chinese restaurant.
So today I went hiking again with an Israelian and the Japanese guy that I met the afternoon before, discovering amazing places of in the mountains. Singing Norwegian wood, and praying on Buddhist-Shinto shrines on top of the mountains that are connected to Sarasvati. Live changes...

From Aso my Japanese cycling couple and me cycled together to Takachiho to visit the old great shrines and lovely ravines over there. Its said that Amaterasu Omikami, Japans highest ranked Shinto kami, namely the sun godess, has been hiding here in a cave which she closed with a hugh rock, therefore leaving the world in utter blackness. The other kamis gathered and discussed how to get the sun out of her shelter, and eventually a gracefull dance made Amaterasu Omikami to drag the stone away a bit, and the strongest kami took his chances and dragged her out.

After that, we spend a few rainy days in a somewhat remote canoeing club close by, from where we headed on through the mountains torwards Yoshino. On the way, the three of us faced and and challenged a lonely 1000 metres high pass from almost sea level in the late afternoon. Reached the top close to exhaustion and found the only restaurant almost closed. But the locals had pity and delivered us to a youth adventure resort that just opend up for us, providing us with a hot bath and lovely meal. Lovely landscape, steep mountains and small valleys, a nice waterfall, lovely autumn colors and barely towns or villages...

After we paid a visit to the Kirishima shrine, we headed towards Tarumizu, which is close to active volcano of Sakurajima, and spend a few more rainy days in the local Raiderhouse. 1000 Yen for a night in the dormitory, Internet available. 230 Yen for diner that the owner of the place prepared with us together. Affordable travelling, compared to what I did in Shikoku before. On the morning we left Tarumizu, the roads and cars and everything was coated with a few millimeters of dark gray dust, the volcano had been fairly active over night. The entire place looked like a sort of a ghost town and a strong sulpur smell spoiled the scenery..

We went by ferry down to Ibuski on the other side of the Kagoshima bay, spend a night over there (in a neat little Raiderhouse with no one there except a little cute cat). On the next day, we reached Bonotsu, where a study mate of our brave bicycle ninja girl lived. Her family received us with a warm welcome, provided excellent diner and entertainment. On the next day (yeah, it was raining again) the father would drive us arround the area, showing us some of the most prominent places along the coast where in ancient times Chinese monks came and settled buddhist monastries. On we went to Chiran, visitited the old Samurai streets with the lovely stone gardens, and went to the former Kamikaze One Way airport, a place that now hosts a Peace museum with the pictures, names, ages and home towns of each of the pilots that left this place never to return. On display were as well their Farewell letters, and even English translation was provided. In the Entrance hall, a hugh painting showing a crashing down war plane with angels rescueing the seoul of the blood covered pilot. On the back wall of main hall, behind a war plane, a hugh photography of the Kaimon dake, probably the last thing the poor guys have seen from the father land, in best believe to serve their country...

The family where we stayed provided everything for us in these days, food, tickets, we even went to a Karaoke bar in the neighbouring town together and had a great time singing all together. On the following day, we cycled on to Kagoshima...

I arrive at the ferry port in pouring rain. I was warned before, and I do not mourn. The tourist info at the Miyanoura ferry port provides extensive information on accomodation as well as pamphlets with the major hiking trails. Decide to take the nearest and cheapest Minshuku (2000Yen) a few kilometers off Miyanoura town, with friendly hosts and a super market nearby.

On the next morning, the rain had stopped. Leave the Minshuku with my backpack, some food and two sleeping bags, heading uphill on a barely used foot trail. Bye bye you vending machines. The mist of last nights rain hangs in the trees of the thick forest. Small rivers run down the stony and mossy river beds beside the trail in litle waterfalls. The trail becomes more and more invisible, and harder walk. After a while, a strange whisteling attracts my attention. I watch out for a while, and then I discover a deer a few dozen metres uphill to my right side. And beside the deer, there is one of the small pink rubberband foot trail markers that I haven't seen for a while. Thanks my deer, for leading me back to the correct trail! I follow the whisteling that keeps me leading for the next one or two hours until I reach the entrance of the Shiratani park with its great ravine and its ancient cedar trees within the primeval forest that is called Mononoke forest. Moss on the trunks and branches of the tall cedars in the mist, vivid green moss with tiny raindrops on the stones and on the ground. Deer and monkeys are all over in the woods. An incredible scenario. At lunchtime I'm finished with the park. According to my map, its about 4 hours more to walk to Japans oldest Cedar tree, Jomon sugi. Other people on the way told me about its magic - it could change ones live on the first view. A hut is located nearby the cedar, and the weather is still good - easy decision: I go for it. Hiking feels so good up here, and is a nice change to all the cycling of the past weeks! A few kilomters easy going on a small railroad track, many hiker groups return to their bus station. Then the hiking trail leads steep uphill, sometimes supported with wooden steps and small ladders. Its getting quiet now, there are barely any other hikers on the trail no more. After a while I meet two woman and their quiet young tour guide on the way. Their are heading for Jomon sugi too. We chat for a while about the mystic of the place, about Jomon sugi and the hut nearby. The guide carries a hugh backpack with all the food and lots of equipment for the ladies for their overnight stay. We split again, and I keep walking my pace. Soft rain when I reach the ancient Wilson stump, and still raining when I finally face the giant Jomon sugi with his light grey trunk standing like a ghost tree in the foggy mountain forest. I have all the time of the world to contemplate on the age of this very tree. Some say, it is 2000 years old. Others estimate its age to 7000 years. Either way, to watch something living of this age that has survived all sorts of nature or man made catastrophes is incredible. Meanwhile, I am not only wet by the sweat... The hut is not desserted, a few more well equipped hikers are there too and the bed shelf on the upper stage is wet. Luckily, I still get a dry place on the lower level. No electricity, and no oven either, and no open fire allowed except for gas cookers. Looks like its gonna be a cold and wet night up here for me. On the way to the fresh water spring I meet the ladies and the guide again and tell them the situation. He'd stay overnight in a small wooden shelter nearby, so there would still be room enough for the ladies in the hut. We are talking about his job and how he came to do this while he prepares diner for his customers. In the end, he even hands me some Japanese heating packs (O kairo) for the night. Nice guy, that guide!

With the heating packs in my sleeping bags I sleep better than expected that night. Rain in the morning, time to go back. Yesterdays fog is away, now its just pouring rain. The trail is like a small river, and I jump from stone to stone, root to root. Slipperly, slippery... By 11 AM I reach the park entrance again with its bus station. I'm wet all over, and can swim in my bicycle shoes. Decide to take the bus back to Miyanoura instead of more adventureous hiking. Time for a descent nap on my warm and cosy futton, time to warm up and dry the clothes and shoes. Another guest gives me a ride to the nearby onsen. Happy happy in the hot bath tube. Back in the guesthouse, a neighbor of my hosts offers sake and deer sashimi (thin slices of raw deer meet). I hope it wasn't the one that led my way yesterday...

On the following day, the rain has stopped and the sun is shining. Best conditions to hit the road again, and so I cycle almost half way arround the island, the ocean to my left and the mountains to my right. Along the road, there are nice Hibiskus bushes with big red blossoms, banana trees and palms. Tropical feeling, the first time since 6 or 7 weeks. Just before Onoaida, the town I intend to stay tonight, a road is leading uphill towards Senpiro no taki, a famous waterfall. No tourists up there, just me and the white noise behind the valley between my plateau and the distant waterfall. Camping for 800 Yen in the beautiful garden of a guesthouse, drinking in the evening with the other guest and the host. On the next day I go for one more hike to another waterfall, Yanokuchi no taki. Again a lovely lonely hike on small trails uphill, across the stone beds of small mountain rivers.

In the afternoon, I hit the road again. Kurio, the next target, is a small town in the west of Yakushima. A few guesthouses, and a nice campground with bungalows that is closed. Off-season, the lady tells me on the telephone. However, I can camp there for one night. Next morning I go on to the Ohko no taki waterfall, a few kilometers behind Kurio. The next part towards Nagata is a small road in the forest only accessible for small cars, which is part of the core UNESCO World Natural Heritage area. Barely traffic at all, just Macaque families and deer sitting on the asphalt, watching the sweating cyclist climbing up the steep rocky coast road. In Nagata, an elderly woman tells me about her German tentant who lived in her place for two years, and gives me a big piece of home made Japanese cake. Next stop is Isso, another little town with a nice beach with a small cave shrine and a lighthouse on its neighbouring penninsula. Sun is shining, just the right time for a short swim. An English guy is swimming as well. Afterwards, we visit the small cave shrine. In the end of that day, I return to my cheap homestay again. My hosts are happy to see me again, and I'm very happy to sleep on my futton again. I have a bath in a tube over open fire in their house. Incredible feeling...

For the following day the weatherforecast is good and I decide to go one more time up in the mointains, heading for Aiko dake (1200m). Lovely hike in the thick forest, and after about two hours I see my peak the first time. The sun smiles through the roof of the trees. Rock climbing with a few saveguarding ropes to the top. Just before me and the guided group that I catched up with reached the peak, a missile starts with loud noise from a naighboring island. I it wasn't that cloudy we would have seen the rocket. Instead, suddenly a heavy ice rain started, and the footpath back down turned into a river of ice cold water...

Arriving after a long and wavily night on the upper deck of the ferry with drinking Japanese spirits and beers with a cyclist that I just met, I get off the ferry in Naze on Amami Oshima at 5 AM. Tired and wrecked from drinking and the Muai Thai boxing session. Hang out in a Conbini that is equipped with seats until sunrise. Decide to cycle towards Ohama beach a few kilometres south of Naze, a lovely spot for turtle and bird watching. The only way to get here is over some mountain road where I can feel every bruise of last nights fight. Ohama beach welcomes me with a long white beach, a tropical garden and a camp site on another smaller beach behind the cliffs. Sleep on the beach for an hour in the sun, talk to the staff about the camp site and the weather forecast. I already love the place, however I decide to stay at a recommended youth hostel in Shinaze, a neighboring village for tonight. The manager invites me to go to some Christian Mass in the village, yet I'm not in the mood. I'm in Japan, and I prefer the Buddhist and Shinto part of its culture...

The day after I leave the hostel, and spent two days in an affordable Ryokan in Naze, just to wait for better weather. Cycle a little bit in the North of Naze, yet I'm not really up to cycling no more. Instead, I enjoy walking the streets of the lively seaport, and wait for my legs to stop hurting. With sunshine on the fourth day on the island I decide to head further south towards Setouchi, a small seaport in the South of Amami. One more mountain pass on the way brings me to a facinating viewpoint to see the scattered coastline of Amami and the southern islands. Incredible view!

I inquire about the Yadori campsite at the Setouchi goverment office and learn it is closed because its off-season. However, I am allowed to stay there for free for two nights. Yadori beach is just some 12 kilometers away from Setouchi town, however after the three ascents on the small coast road I am exhausted. The lovely and lonely beach as well as the tranquill campsite garden recompenses the effort by far. Swimming in the sea, Tai Chi on the beach for sunset, and a lovely diner in a bar beside the campside for the perfect end of a lovely day. Certainly, I enjoy the warm sun. Two days later I'm on my way to return to Naze with no idea what to do next. I decide to go on the same road back that I came here because it is less mountains and much shorter. I fell I'm getting lazy cycling. On the way, I almost bump into my cycling friends from Kyushu on the cycling track of the longest tunnel on the island. What a surprise! My friends were staying on the neighboring island, and decided to join me after the received my mail from Setouchi. Great, what a coincidence that we met. We decide to camp together on Ohama beach back in Naze for a few days before they return home. For me as well as for my friends, this is finally resting after more than 3600 kilometers of cycling. We finally found the warm beaches and stayed, and I have great company. Emi prepares rice or pancake and Indian chai for breakfast, okonomiyaki for lunch and curry for dinner on our campground kitchen on the gas cooker. Atsushi plays the Marimba in the evening. A white one-eyed cat comes by every now and then to beg for some food.

An older man comes by almost every morning. We chat with him, and he'd tell us about his passion, diving, snorkeling, fish hunting. If we were interested? Oh yes, of course, we say. So he provides us with wet suits and snorkeling gear and we go snorkeling the coral banks, hunting fish with rubberband harpunes, eating them at night.

After 6 days on Ohama beach, my friends leave and I spend my time with Tai Chi and reading sutras, and learning Japanese a bit with the old man. He's really patient with me and my dictionary. Every once in a while we go snorkeling and sometimes he invites me for dinner and drinks back in his place.

Then the rain came, and the wind. Temperature dropped. I went to a public bath with Sauna after about two weeks with cold showers and shaved my beard. Then I left, heading by ferry to Osaka...